Thursday, March 19, 2009
at
7:47 AM
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Yes, suits in 2009 and 2010 are all about classic elements but there are still plenty of factors away from the trend elements that you have to contemplate. Consider all of the following before making an investment in a suit this year.
How Many Buttons?The amount of buttons a single-breasted suit jacket should sport is really a matter of personal preference, but let me offer the following.
One Button
A single button falls into the realm of a fashion suit; it's been a trend before and will go out again. And there's a reason for it: within reason, the more buttons a suit jacket has the taller a gentleman looks (yet another of the visual tricks a suit can perform). So it stands to reason that a single-buttoned suit does the opposite to conveying stature. So unless you're over 6' 2", I'd suggest you avoid a single-buttoned suit.
Two Buttons
My preference for a modern suit. It conveys height, slims the waist, and fits perfectly within the realm of fashion and classicism.
Three Buttons
Very much a look of the 1990's, it's making a come back and has been seen amongst the tailored wares of Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren's Purple Label. Three buttons convey a greater sense of height than a two button suit, but are harder to pull off. I own several, and wear most of them in a fashion-forward sense. Definitely one for the more confident amongst us.
Four Buttons or more
Please don't. I'm yet to see any four button suits offered in 2009 which truly impress me, fall within current men's trends, and will figure in as a good investment piece beyond this year.
The ShoulderA lot of suit terms can be mixed and matched, but I'm a fan of something I've always called the 'British rolled-shoulder.' Others might call it something else, but it is effectively where the shoulder padding finishes. A lot of Italian and US based designers prefer to have the shoulder padding finish precisely where the bone does. A British rolled shoulder has the padding extend over the shoulder and roll down into the sleeve, and figures into men's suiting as another visual trick - this time designed to make the shoulders seem broader and the arms better built.
VentsThis one is really simple: choose a suit with two side vents. The only time to break this rule is if you're buying a dinner suit.
When tailored correctly a suit jacket with side vents is always preferential due to the perfect silhouette it can provide.
LapelsSince the mid-20th Century notched lapels on a suit have been the staple, but as we return towards classic tailoring in 2009 we'll see a return of the peaked lapel. Last at the fore of fashion in the 1920s, the peaked lapel is another of the great visual elements of a men's suit: it helps convey the much coveted V shape.
That said, notched lapels aren't out of fashion and both are an equally good investment.
Which Cloth Should You Pick?The fabric you buy your suit in will be on of the biggest factors in the price you pay, but selecting the right fabric will also play a big factor in whether you buy an investment piece or a one season wonder.
Wool
The clear favourite for suits, but pick carefully. I've seen some very expensive wool suits fall apart within a few years due to the cloth being a terrible blend. My personal preference is towards a super-wool, with a thread count somewhere between 120 and 150. I tend towards 150 as it's often perfect on both cold and hot days. If you live, however, in more extreme climates you'll need both Winter (200 thread count) and Summer (100 thread count) suits in wool.
Cotton
Cotton can make a beautiful suit, but make no mistake: it's best only as an informal or fashion suit and, unlike wool, is going to crease like anything. I find it best in colours which aren't black and grey, tending towards navy and tan. If you're looking for a good cotton suit in a modern, slim classic then look to Ralph Lauren's Black Label.
Linen
So many men simply don't understand linen, and it's often those of us who have had the luck of a childhood in Europe that may ever truly appreciate it. But a linen suit can be perfect for those hot, humid Summer days. Shy away from it in browns, and wear it in colours such as white and cream and you'll stand out in a crowd of otherwise dull suit wearers.
One final note on linen: don't be scared of its penchant for creasing, it's all a part of the fabric's charm.
How Many Buttons?The amount of buttons a single-breasted suit jacket should sport is really a matter of personal preference, but let me offer the following.
One Button
A single button falls into the realm of a fashion suit; it's been a trend before and will go out again. And there's a reason for it: within reason, the more buttons a suit jacket has the taller a gentleman looks (yet another of the visual tricks a suit can perform). So it stands to reason that a single-buttoned suit does the opposite to conveying stature. So unless you're over 6' 2", I'd suggest you avoid a single-buttoned suit.
Two Buttons
My preference for a modern suit. It conveys height, slims the waist, and fits perfectly within the realm of fashion and classicism.
Three Buttons
Very much a look of the 1990's, it's making a come back and has been seen amongst the tailored wares of Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren's Purple Label. Three buttons convey a greater sense of height than a two button suit, but are harder to pull off. I own several, and wear most of them in a fashion-forward sense. Definitely one for the more confident amongst us.
Four Buttons or more
Please don't. I'm yet to see any four button suits offered in 2009 which truly impress me, fall within current men's trends, and will figure in as a good investment piece beyond this year.
The ShoulderA lot of suit terms can be mixed and matched, but I'm a fan of something I've always called the 'British rolled-shoulder.' Others might call it something else, but it is effectively where the shoulder padding finishes. A lot of Italian and US based designers prefer to have the shoulder padding finish precisely where the bone does. A British rolled shoulder has the padding extend over the shoulder and roll down into the sleeve, and figures into men's suiting as another visual trick - this time designed to make the shoulders seem broader and the arms better built.
VentsThis one is really simple: choose a suit with two side vents. The only time to break this rule is if you're buying a dinner suit.
When tailored correctly a suit jacket with side vents is always preferential due to the perfect silhouette it can provide.
LapelsSince the mid-20th Century notched lapels on a suit have been the staple, but as we return towards classic tailoring in 2009 we'll see a return of the peaked lapel. Last at the fore of fashion in the 1920s, the peaked lapel is another of the great visual elements of a men's suit: it helps convey the much coveted V shape.
That said, notched lapels aren't out of fashion and both are an equally good investment.
Which Cloth Should You Pick?The fabric you buy your suit in will be on of the biggest factors in the price you pay, but selecting the right fabric will also play a big factor in whether you buy an investment piece or a one season wonder.
Wool
The clear favourite for suits, but pick carefully. I've seen some very expensive wool suits fall apart within a few years due to the cloth being a terrible blend. My personal preference is towards a super-wool, with a thread count somewhere between 120 and 150. I tend towards 150 as it's often perfect on both cold and hot days. If you live, however, in more extreme climates you'll need both Winter (200 thread count) and Summer (100 thread count) suits in wool.
Cotton
Cotton can make a beautiful suit, but make no mistake: it's best only as an informal or fashion suit and, unlike wool, is going to crease like anything. I find it best in colours which aren't black and grey, tending towards navy and tan. If you're looking for a good cotton suit in a modern, slim classic then look to Ralph Lauren's Black Label.
Linen
So many men simply don't understand linen, and it's often those of us who have had the luck of a childhood in Europe that may ever truly appreciate it. But a linen suit can be perfect for those hot, humid Summer days. Shy away from it in browns, and wear it in colours such as white and cream and you'll stand out in a crowd of otherwise dull suit wearers.
One final note on linen: don't be scared of its penchant for creasing, it's all a part of the fabric's charm.
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thekoolkidz
Labels:
Kool Fashion
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